Renee was lifted in mid December and After Christmas I started in earnest to repair the cracked ribs. I sought the advice of David Pestridge, the surveyor from White Hat Yacht Surveying http://www.whitehatyachtsurveying.com as my plan was to have steel braces made up to bolt onto the offending ribs. However it was decided to repair them with laminated oak strips in situ . this is with exception of the rib which had become rotten due to the leaking water tank. This was templated and a new rib was laminated to the required radius on a jig in the shed.
Before I could start, and before the old water tank could be removed , the engine had to be disconnected and moved forward into the saloon. I managed this on my own by using the mainsheet pulley hung on a beam across the companion way.
The engine being moved forward
The first rib was templated with ply and then a jig was made up and the new rib was laminated using epoxy adhesive. The rotten part of the old rib was chopped out and the new one bolted and glued to the good bits left. I them bolted this though the planks using silicon bronze machine screws. I chose to do this as opposed to copper nails and roves because , working on my own, I would have needed a helping hand with a dolly outside . This is difficult to organise precicely when you need it. Silcon bronze is not cheap, but then convenience has a price.
Laminating on the jig
The new laminated oak rib
The new rib in position. Through bolted and glued to the good parts of the old rib. Holes in the planking where the old rib was, plugged with expoxy
The next ribs were ground away using a TCT sculpting disc on the angle grinder after having drifted out the copper nails. I then used a coarse sander to get a nice flat surface and laminated the oak strips in situ. I secured these to the old ribs with brass screws which were later cut away when the oak stips were cut back to re shape the repair to the shape of the original rib. Sounds easy but actually it was a gutty job. I could only do 2 at a time, one on each side. Then I had to leave the glue to set overnight and then shape and fasten the following day. So it took a while to do.
The repaired rib rough cut with a reciprocating saw, ready for shaping
The repaired rib shaped and bolted in place
The 3 sternmost ribs in place ready for shaping
The next ribs were very much a repetition of the first. it took me about 4 days to complete the 10. I trimmed off the excess bolts and put a dab of epoxy on each one to ensure they would not work loose.
All the ribs now bonded, shaped and bolted in, ready for painting.
Whilst working deep in the bilge. I came across some rot in the stern post where the stern tube comes into the boat. This was quite advanced , so I chopped out the bad stuff and dried the wood with a heat gun. I then shuttered up the area with oak strips and poured epoxy mixed with micro fibres until it was full. I don't think the rot will re=occur there.
The rotten wood chopped out and the area dried.
The area, shuttered and filled with epoxy
The new ribs with a coat of under coat ,ready for the interior of the hull to be repainted with special bilge paint.
The stern part of the hull, now painted with Danbolin red paint. Difficult and horrible job to do.
During the survey ,it was noted that there was significant play on the prop shaft and the cutlass bearing is the culprit. This is a Nitile rubber bearing in a brass housing. When the shaft was removed, it was easy to extract the rubber part but this left the brass housing firmly in place. There is no way this can be drawn out with a puller so I made 3 longitudinal cuts with a reciprocal saw and then prized the sections out of the stern tube. I cleaned the inside of the tube out with fine emery cloth and ordered a new bearing. Initially I thought the shaft was 1" diameter with the housing 1 1/2" ID. Clearly I had not measured the shaft correctly as it turned out to be 25mm shaft dia. x 1 1/2" housing. I swapped them. these come 4" long but the housing is only 63mm. so I have had to cut a piece off. Also there are 2 retaining grub screws in the housing and these were siezed solid. So I drilled them out with a 5mm drill and re tapped the threads to M6 thread. I made up 2 stainless grub scews with a pointed end and drilled a dimple in the brass casing so the screws would locate and keep the bearing in place I heated the housing and gently tapped the bearing in. I then cut it to size in situ with a reciprocating saw fitted with a fine hacksaw blade.. In all this was quite a tedious job. However it should be good now for the next 10 years.
The bearing housing with the old bearing removed.
The segments of the old bearing after removal
The new bearing in place
Job done, with the bearing cut to size.
I have purchased a new Nasa Marine Speed and depth DUET instrument. The old depth transducer had been poorly fitted and came away from the hull with a little leverage with a screwdriver. It was not pointing vertically and so I decided to renew the housing
I shaped a new piece from a 3"x3" piece of sapele which I found for £5 at Goodwillies. I measured the angle of the hull to the vertical and cut the angle of 27deg on the bandsaw. I then drilled a hole with a flat bit to the depth of the transducer so it would be just proud of the housing. and then drilled a 16mm hole right the way through.
I then fitted this to the underside of the hull with sikaflex and 3 silicon bronze screws from the inside. I used the angled offcut on the inside of the hull to get a good square pull on the threaded shaft.
The new transducer will be sealed in with silicone later.
The old transducer housing which was made up of a wood shell filled with filler. It came away just by levering with a screwdriver.
The housing and the offcut prior to fitting
The new transducer housing fitted and sealed with sika flex. This will be undercoated and antifouled without touching the transducer face.
The offcut of the angled cut , used on the inside to get a square bearing surface for the securing nut
As part of the Nasa Duet speed & depth instrument , I needed to fit the paddlewheel , through hull transducer. This involved cutting a neat 42mm hole in the hull as low down as possible , where the transducer can be accessed from inside. I used an adjustable flat bit cutting from the inside first and then completing the hole from the outside. I made a backing plate with the corresponding hole and sikaflexed this to the interior planking . I lined the hole with clear silicone and made a sikaflex seal around the flange of the threaded tube. I made a sikaflex seal around the locking ring and tightened it all down.
Speed paddle wheel transducer in place below the cabin sole boards
The next task, before the engine could go back in was to make a housing to contain the 100 ltr flexible water tank I intended to fit in place of the leaking stainless one. I used 12mm marine ply to make a smooth floor for the tank to lie on. Then i made a side wall reinforced with 30x30 battens. This all had to be scribed to the shape of the hull so it is not an easy job and therer is not much room to move around down there. I did a dry run and then primed and painted the boards and finally screwed it into place, remembering to make a hole for the outlet hose. The tank will be inserted though the cockpit locker and the water filler will be in the cockpit.
Plywood base for the tank housing
Supporting side wall for the tank housing in place
I had noticed that the exhaust elbow was quite corroded and considered replacing it. The bolts were in so tight that I ended up having to remove the heat exchanger and taking it to The Beta Marine Dealer AD Marine in Hayling Island to apply some serious heat to it and shift it. We were successful and the bolts did not shear off. I overhauled the heat exchanger and bolted it back on.I recieved very friendly and prompt service from this company.
Heat exchanger overhauled with a fresh coat of paint. The engine was cleaned up and treated to some new red paint before it was re fitted.
I used the mainsheet and a beam across the companion way to hoist the engine back into place. It was trick , on my own to get it into position and line up the four mounting bolts simutaneously. but in the end it went ok. I re- fitted the shaft prior to bolting the engine down to ensure correct alignment and then I connected up all the anciliaries. Good to see the engine where it belongs.
The engine being hoisted back onto its mountings using the mainsheet with a beam across the companionway.
The engine , back where it belongs
Prop shaft and the exhaust system, reconnected. I replaced the exhaust hoses. Wish I had kept the old ones as 2 metres of hose cost £67 !
Originally, There was a recessed mechanical log in the fron of the cockpit . When this was removed it left a gaping hole in the panel so I fitted a new 9mm ply panel to cover it and made new cut outs for the engine control panel and the new Nasa instruments. I will re-use the Silva GPS repeater as it works fine.
Hole where the old VDO Sumlog was fitted and layout for the new instruments
New 9mm plywood panel sikaflexed to the original
Cut outs , ready for the instrument displays and the Engine control panel.
The batteries had been tied in with bits of string so i decided to build 2 new battery boxes and a new shelf under the coskpit for them to sit on.
Battery boxes built in 12mm marine ply.
The battery boxes, primed and sitting on the new shelf under the cockpit floor.
I have had new battery cables made up and the next job it to connect everything up. I Took the opportunity of cleaning out the bilges in the saloon area and re painting with Danboline paint. I've also re-varnished the cabine sole boards and these can now be re-fitted as the iterior work is almost done. I've ordered the timber for the new toerails and the faux teak decking for the cockpit refurb which will begin in earnest next week.
The bilges, all spruced up.
The newly refurbished cabin sole boards have been re fitted and apart from the wiring up of the electrics that is the interior work all done.